The History Of Cotton In North Carolina

Cotton has shaped North Carolina's economy and society for over two centuries. Here's a quick overview of its journey:

• Early Beginnings: Cotton farming began in colonial times, with production booming after the invention of the cotton gin in 1793. By 1860, North Carolina was a key player in global cotton supply.
• Textile Industry Growth: The state became a leader in textile production, with 351 mills by 1923 employing over 81,000 workers. Mill towns reshaped communities and economies.
• Modern Advances: Today, North Carolina is the 7th largest cotton producer in the U.S., employing about 35,000 people. Innovations like genetically modified seeds, precision farming, and advanced machinery have transformed the industry.
• Challenges: Rising costs, labor shortages, and climate concerns remain hurdles, but farmers are adopting solutions like drought-resistant cotton and precision irrigation.
• Economic Impact: Cotton still drives North Carolina's economy, with $1.4 billion in textile exports annually and a focus on sustainability and advanced manufacturing.

This article explores how cotton shaped North Carolina's past, the technological changes it has embraced, and the challenges it faces today.

Cotton's Start in North Carolina

First Cotton Farms

North Carolina's cotton farming began during colonial times on a small scale. Cotton seeds first arrived in Florida in 1556 and made their way to Virginia by 1607. By 1616, colonists along the James River were successfully growing cotton. Early farming relied heavily on handpicking, with transient laborers and tenant farmers providing the workforce. A standout example of this history is Northampton County, where families like the Tillerys have been involved in cotton farming for over a century. This legacy continues today through efforts like Black Cotton, founded by Julius Tillery in 2016. These early efforts laid the groundwork for dramatic changes that came with the cotton gin.

Cotton Gin Effects

Eli Whitney's invention of the cotton gin in 1793 transformed cotton production across North Carolina and the South. Whitney himself noted its efficiency, writing:

"One man and a horse will do more than fifty men with the old machines"

In 1790, U.S. cotton production totaled 3,135 bales, valued at $150,000. Just a decade later, the crop's value soared past $8 million, and by 1860, production reached 3,837,402 bales. Recognizing the cotton gin's potential, North Carolina and Tennessee were among the first to purchase Whitney's patent rights.

The gin's ability to quickly separate short-staple cotton fibers from seeds removed a major bottleneck in processing. This breakthrough led to rapid growth, with raw cotton production doubling every decade after 1800. The increased efficiency and profitability attracted more farmers to cotton cultivation, reshaping North Carolina's agricultural landscape.

Growth of NC Cotton Production

1800s Cotton Farm Growth

In the early 1800s, North Carolina's cotton industry expanded rapidly. The invention of the cotton gin sparked a major increase in production. By 1820, the United States was producing over 30 times more cotton compared to the pre-gin era. This boom reshaped agriculture in North Carolina, making cotton the dominant crop. By 1860, the state played a key role in the U.S. contributing to two-thirds of the global cotton supply.

Several factors drove this growth. Land availability combined with improved transportation systems, like the expansion of railroads to more than 30,000 miles by 1860, significantly lowered shipping costs. Cotton exports soared from 150,000 bales in 1815 to an impressive 4,541,000 bales by 1859. Senator James Henry Hammond famously emphasized cotton's importance by stating:

"Cotton", he declared, "is king."

This national surge in cotton production laid the groundwork for local changes, including the rise of textile mill towns in North Carolina.

Cotton Mill Towns

As raw cotton production flourished, North Carolina began processing its cotton locally after the Civil War. This shift kept profits within the state. The number of textile mills grew from just 25 in 1840 to 182 by 1900.

Mill towns emerged around these textile hubs, reshaping both the economy and daily life. Mill owners provided housing and essential services for workers. Notable examples include Kannapolis in Cabarrus County, which developed around the Cannon Mills complex, and Cramerton in Gaston County, centered near May Mills.

The success of these mill towns often depended on their access to railroads. For instance, the Clayton Cotton Mill, established in 1900, was strategically placed near rail lines to streamline cotton transportation.

By the turn of the century, North Carolina had evolved from a primarily agricultural state to one dotted with factories, particularly in the Piedmont region. This transformation was fueled by a combination of key factors:

These elements cemented North Carolina's position as a leader in both cotton production and textile manufacturing, paving the way for further industrial growth in the 20th century.

Cotton Equipment Progress

Machine Harvesting

The move from hand-picking to mechanical harvesting completely changed the cotton industry in the U.S. Between 1953 and 1963, the percentage of mechanically harvested cotton rose from 22% to 72%. This leap in technology boosted production efficiency while cutting down on labor needs.

Modern cotton harvesters come with impressive features. Take the John Deere CP770 cotton picker, for example:

Farmers in North Carolina have embraced these advancements. Brad Warren, a farmer in the state, adopted no-till farming back in 1992. Using a 12-row, 38-inch precision planter equipped with V-Drive technology, he's been able to plant more efficiently, covering more ground per load.

"No-till has made a huge difference in my soil health and reducing my operation's environmental footprint. The permeability of the soil has improved dramatically. Organic matter left on the field after harvest is beneficial and, over time, the soil has become so mellow."
– Brad Warren, North Carolina Farmer

These advancements in harvesting have naturally led to improvements in how cotton is processed.

Better Cotton Gins

Modern cotton gins have built on past innovations to improve efficiency and profitability in North Carolina's cotton industry. Today, cotton processing typically involves two main methods:

These improvements have helped North Carolina maintain its rank as the seventh-largest cotton producer in the U.S.. Still, farmers face challenges.

"The input costs have gone up to the point where it's really important for your yield to be as high as it can be to be able to meet it. At this point, there's lots of time us as farmers are feeling like we can't meet that yield line to make it."
– Kelly Archambault, Fifth-generation Farmer

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Cotton's Effect on NC Society

Work in Fields and Mills

Cotton reshaped North Carolina's workforce and society. In 1860, nearly 4 million enslaved individuals lived in the Southern states, making up over 45% of the region's population. This created a sharp divide between landowners and laborers. While around 300 plantations exceeded 1,000 acres, most farms - over 46,000 by 1860 - were small, typically under 100 acres.

After the Civil War, sharecropping became widespread. By 1890, one in three white farmers and three out of four Black farmers worked as tenants or sharecroppers.

Fast forward to 1965, textile workers in Clayton earned between $1.25 and $2.25 per hour at facilities like Clayton Spinning Company and Bartex Spinning Company, which together employed about 700 workers.

These economic and social divides left a lasting impact on North Carolina's development.

Cotton's Money Impact

By 1923, North Carolina had become the leading textile producer in the United States. Key moments in the industry's economic history include:

The industry underwent significant changes. From 1993 to 2022, employment in textile mills dropped by 85%, while apparel manufacturing jobs declined by 94.4%.

"Both the textile and apparel sectors are viable and significant parts of our economy." - Dr. Michael Walden, William Neal Reynolds Distinguished Professor Emeritus at NC State.

Cotton's reach extended well beyond agriculture. Urban areas expanded to support the trade, creating new business opportunities and connecting North Carolina to global markets. In mill towns, companies often controlled housing, stores, and even elements of daily community life.

Although manufacturing's share of North Carolina's real GDP fell from 22% to 15% between 1997 and 2022, the state's textile industry continues to adapt, leveraging new technologies and meeting modern market demands.

(Re)Made in the Carolinas: Textile Towns

NC Cotton Today

Modern practices, built on years of technological progress, continue to transform cotton farming in North Carolina.

Current Farming Methods

Cotton farming in North Carolina has embraced advancements in technology and genetics. Most cotton grown today is genetically modified to resist pests and herbicides. These seeds, costing between $500 and $600 per 50-pound bag, can plant around 5.5 acres. Farmers now use cutting-edge machinery and precision agriculture tools. Additionally, commercial seeds come pre-treated with fungicides and insecticides to protect against threats like thrips and nematodes.

"Soil health is really at the core of what we're trying to do."
– Donny Lassiter, Lassiter Family Farms

Current Issues and Options

North Carolina cotton farmers face several challenges, including rising costs, water management concerns, labor shortages, and unpredictable weather. To tackle these, many are turning to advanced solutions:

These strategies are helping farmers adapt while setting the stage for future improvements in the industry.

What's Next for NC Cotton

The future of NC cotton farming focuses on sustainability and advanced technology. Autonomous harvesters and precision spray systems are already making an impact, lowering chemical costs by 25%, improving coverage by 20%, and increasing yields by up to 316 pounds per acre.

"Water is our primary managing factor. So, anytime we can do a better job of managing that resource it has a definite impact on yield and in turn, has a definite impact on profitability."
– Rick Kellison, Texas Alliance for Water Conservation Project Director

Ongoing research aims to develop cotton varieties with better water efficiency and climate resilience. By combining productivity with resource efficiency, the industry is moving toward a more sustainable and balanced future.

Conclusion

North Carolina's cotton industry has evolved into a high-tech force, playing a key role in the state's economy. As the leader in U.S. textile exports, the state builds on a rich history of agricultural and industrial expertise.

This history continues to influence modern advancements. Take Material Return in Morganton, for example. They process millions of pounds of textile and furniture waste annually, using a localized 75-mile supply chain to make it happen. Their approach highlights how traditional knowledge fuels modern progress.

"It's really advantageous for us to be [in North Carolina]. There's so much experience and wisdom here from a textile standpoint."
– Bill Johnston, Recover Brands

The industry isn't without its challenges. Efforts today focus on circular economy models and developing new fibers while addressing long-standing disparities. For instance, only 3% of farms in North Carolina are Black-owned. Groups like Black Cotton are stepping in to change the story and open doors for new opportunities.

Even with these hurdles, North Carolina's deep roots in the textile world provide a strong foundation for sustainable growth. With 39,000 textile workers and a growing advanced manufacturing sector, the state’s cotton industry is poised to balance tradition with forward-thinking progress.

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